All Along The Peace River

Far, far away in the gargantuan country of Canada were the great Alberta prairies. An area roughly the size of France, there is immense space up there. Leaving the house where one dwelt and driving onto the loose gravel, past the dead swamp trees toward the grocery store, directions were as follows:

Left at the swather.

There is also a town in northern Alberta called Peace River, which tells a very delightful story. Firstly, crossing the river to get into the town of Peace River involves boarding a ferry. They call it the Shaftesbury Ferry.

The Settlers began to petition to the provincial government in the year 1917 for a ferry to cross this gigantic river. They told the government about what a great hardship it was not to be able to take their residents and goods across. The government however, did not respond until finally the Blakely family came along in 1952 and started operating their own private ferry. They called it the Homesteader, and as well as moving their farm equipment across the river, it provided a crossing for the lovely residents of Peace River. On one occasion, the Beaverlodge band floated peacefully down river aboard the Homesteader, merrily playing their instruments for all to listen and see.

Then in 1977, the government finally took over with the Shaftesbury Ferry, and that very same one they use today.

Once across the river, through the town and up the bend, the Sagitawa lookout awaits. So named by the Cree Indians, the Sagitawa lookout is the place where the Smoky and Peace Rivers meet. “Sakitawahk” in Cree means - at the mouth of the river. The First Nations people traveled the pathway provided by the two rivers as well as many others including explorers, adventurers and homesteaders in the area. They traveled by foot and dog team in the winter, and used different forms of water craft in the summer months.

The Peace River Valley is known for its chaotic structures. From oldest to youngest these are: the preglacial sand and gravel, Late Wisconsin sediments, thick silt and clay of glacial Lake Peace and loess (yellowish-grey deposits of wind blown sediment) in local areas. All of which are visible from the Sagitawa Lookout.

Now, Henry Fuller Davis, or better known as Twelve Foot Davis, lived almost half his life in the Peace Country. He witnessed the transition from the frontier era to the settlement era and led the way for a new generation of entrepreneurs. He was known for his mining and fur trade activities. As well as being blindingly handsome.

In the midst of returning to his post in Fort Vermillion on September 13, 1900, this legendary fur trader sadly died. Already plagued by blindness and arthritis, he made it as far as St. Peter’s Anglican Mission near the town of Grouard, and peacefully passed away. His last request to his friend Jim Cornwall was to bury him at a lookout where the Peace and Smoky rivers met. His wish was granted years later and his remains were moved from Grouard, where a marble headstone sculpted in the shape of a tree trunk was placed on his grave close to the year 1912.

When asked if he was afraid to die, he replied, “No, Miss, I am not afraid to die. I never killed nobody and I never willfully harmed nobody and I always kept open house for travelers all my life. No, Miss, I ain’t afraid to die.” Today, his remains look out upon the place where the two rivers meet. Just as he had wanted.

At the mouth of Dunvegan Creek along the northern back end of the Peace River, lies the town of Dunvegan. Here, there is a most magnificent bridge that's ever to have been seen for thousands of miles around. Erected on August 28, 1960 the San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge lookalike historically was crossed by ferry for decades. Beats taking a ferry any day I'd say.

Ferry and bridge crossings complete, the life of a legendary fur trader explored, and a look at the river flowing with peace, the end of a long day came with a blue and orange painted night sky. We sighed, took one last look at the sunset and said goodnight. Life in the great northern prairies of Alberta had seen yet another day well spent.

Bailey Sue